Free Pattern: Garter Wrap Hat

Finding a warm, practical hat that accommodates my hair is tough. Loose, baggy hats don't keep the cold out, and ear-warmers are often just too small. I wanted a hat that gave maximum ear and head coverage while still allowing plenty of space for my hair.

This is the second iteration of this hat; I liked the first one okay, but I didn't write it down, and then after a few years the hat went missing! (Don't worry - I found it as soon as I had knitted this one!) This time I worked more systematically and wrote down everything I did along the way.

Garter Wrap Hat

This hat is simply shaped at each end and has short rows worked over the top to enable it to curve over the head.

Gauge is not crucial as you will be measuring as you go. A tight, dense gauge will make a warmer hat.

I just barely squeezed two of these hats out of one skein of Cascade 220. You may need anywhere from half to a whole skein.

Size: 18" long by 6.5" wide, to fit a 22" head snugly
Yarn: Cascade 220 worsted weight wool (1 skein or less)
Needles: US 5 (or size to obtain gauge)
Gauge: 21.5 sts = 4" in garter stitch
Notions: two large safety-pin style stitch markers, row counter (optional but helpful), one 3/4" button, needle & thread

abbreviations

CO - cast on
BO - bind off
kfb - knit into the front and back of each stitch (to increase one stitch)
YO - yarn over needle
k2tog - knit two stitches together (to decrease one stitch)
ssk - slip, slip, knit (to decrease one stitch)
W&T - wrap and turn. Bring yarn forward between needles, slip next stitch, bring yarn to back, slip stitch back to left needle, turn work around to knit the other direction.

Directions

CO 5 stitches
Knit 1 row
K1, kfb, K1, kfb, K1 (7 sts)
Knit 1 row
Buttonhole row: K1, kfb, K1, YO, k2tog, kfb, K1 (9 sts)
Knit 4 rows
Place a safety pin style stitch marker on the side of the work facing you. (This hat has no right or wrong side, but the stitch marker on one side will help you keep track of rows.)

Next row: *K1, kfb, Knit to last 2 sts, kfb, K1
Knit 2 rows *

Repeat rows between * until you have 35 sts on your needle, ending with the Knit 2 rows. (If you would like the hat wider, continue to repeat the last 3 rows as desired.)

Place a stitch marker on the first stitch on the needle.

First short row: Knit to last 5 sts, W&T
Next short row: Knit to last 5 sts, W&T
* Knit 6 rows
Repeat two short rows *

Repeat rows between * until hat measures 13" from CO. Using your row counter can help you keep track of rows in this section.

This is a good time to check the fit. Wrap the hat around your head with the buttonhole at the back of your head, just under your hairline. Stretch the hat to a snug, comfortable fit, covering the forehead. Look in the mirror. The second marker you placed should fall symmetrically in the same place on your face as the live stitches on the needle. (For example, if the marker is at your eyebrow, the needle with live stitches should be at the level of your other eyebrow.) If you would like more length, continue repeating the rows between * until you have your desired length.

Begin decrease shaping: * Knit 2 rows
K1, ssk, Knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, K1*

Repeat between * until you have 9 sts

Knit 4 rows
K1, ssk, Knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, K1*
Knit 1 row
K1, ssk, K1, k2tog, K1*
BO last 5 sts

Sew a button to the BO end.

If you make this, please let me know!

Free Pattern: Knitted Elbow Patches

I tend to be pretty hard on my sweater elbows. I made the first pair of these last year for the hole-y elbows of a fine-gauge machine-knitted sweater. Since then I've had lots of people ask me about them so I decided to write down the pattern! It's so simple!

I used pretty much matching yarns but it would be fun to do a pair in stripes or contrast!

Knitted Elbow Patches

Yarn: Cascade Yarns 220 or Knit Picks Wool of the Andes worsted

Needles: US size 6

Gauge: 5 stitches per inch (but gauge is not crucial)

Notions: Small hand sewing needle, matching cotton sewing thread

Abbreviations:
K2tog - Knit two stitches together (decrease one stitch)
M1 - Make one (increase one stitch)
SSK - Slip, slip, knit (decrease one stitch)
Stockinette stitch: Knit one row, then purl one row. Repeat.

Directions:
Cast on 10 sts (I prefer long tail method)
Purl 1 row
Next row (increase row): K1, M1, knit to last stitch, M1, K1
Repeat last two rows until you have 16 sts.
Work even in stockinette stitch until piece measures 3” from beginning.
Next row (decrease row): K1, K2tog, knit to last 3, SSK, K1
Purl 1 row
Repeat last two rows until 10 sts left
Bind off all stitches on next row. (This is a purl row but you can bind off either knitwise or purlwise.)

Make 2. The edges will be curly so block if desired.

To help place them symmetrically on each sleeve, use a measuring tape to measure up from the cuff to edge of patch, and over from patch to sleeve seam.

To keep pins from getting stuck, slide a wide clear quilting ruler or small hardcover book inside the sleeve, then use straight pins to pin patches in place. Uncurl the edges as you pin.

Here you can see the patch pinned in place, getting ready to sew, and the clear ruler in the background.

Sew onto the elbow holes of your sweater with cotton sewing thread. I put an extra-large wooden darning egg (available here) inside the sleeve, but if you don't have one, just put your hand inside, or keep the clear ruler or small book inside.

Use an overcasting stitch to attach: scoop a little of your sweater fabric, then come up through the patch from below, letting the thread wrap around edge of patch.

If you make them, let me know what you think!